I am finally going to bite the bullet and cut the windshield off 
my autocross X1/9 this winter, so I will need a roll bar or cage. 
If anyone has one, I would rather buy used than new of course. If 
not I may end up getting a local dirt track builder to fab me 
one...

Thanks
Doug

Doug,

Some suggestions and ideas (if you haven't thought of them 
already):

If you have a local guy make a cage, show them the PBS book.  It 
may save them some time and you some money.

You don't have to run a rear window, right?  If not, run the rear 
braces to the rear strut towers.  I did this and my late model 
engine lid still opened and closed (after a little fine-tuning 
:-)

This may be more work than it is worth, but you can have the legs 
of the main hoop go all the way thru the rocker panels.  This 
makes the cage a little more rigid since you are attaching to the 
chassis in extra places.  It can also give you handy jacking 
plates under the car

Russ McBride
SCCA IT Racer
X1/9 enthusiast
Marietta, GA

RacerRuss wrote:
: Doug,
: Some suggestions and ideas (if you haven't thought of them 
: already):

I hadn't - roll cages are entirely new to me, so thanks.

: If you have a local guy make a cage, show them the PBS book.  

Ok - guess I better buy that thing finally eh?  ;-)

: You don't have to run a rear window, right?  Run the rear 
: braces to the rear strut towers.  I did this and my late model 
: engine lid still opened and closed (after a little fine-tuning 
: :-)

Right - can do - good idea.

: This may be more work than it is worth, but you can have the 
legs 
: of the main hoop go all the way thru the rocker panels.  This 
: makes the cage a little more rigid since you are attaching to 
the 
: chassis in extra places.  It can also give you handy jacking 
: plates under the car

How do you do this without sacrificing structural integrity? Do 
you mean to cut holes in the floor then weld plates underneath? 
Or run the legs through and weld them on top and bottom where 
they intersect the rocker panels?  This sounds like a good idea 
if done correctly, a disaster if not...

Also what is your take on the cost-effectiveness of starting the 
project with and autopower street bar (used $100) as the basis 
for the project?  I also have an old RX-7 bar which may serve as 
a starting point....

Thanks
Doug

Hi Doug,

I recently found a used X1/9 roll cage for sale. I think it 
could be bought for around $300 US and it seems really 
well made. But since I live in Montreal (Canada) the 
shipping will probably be more expensive than the cost of 
having a custom built cage...

BTW , I don't think you will really save money by starting 
with an existing roll bar. The fabricator will prefer to work 
with its own tubing. But having one on hand can be helpful 
for measurement (lenght, angle degrees, etc.), it will save 
some time.

Bye

Daniel Forest
1980 X1/9
Montreal, Canada

Daniel Forest wrote:
: Hi Doug,
: I recently found a used X1/9 roll cage for sale. I think it 
: could be bought for around $300 US and it seems really 
: well made. But since I live in Montreal (Canada) the 
: shipping will probably be more expensive than the cost of 
: having a custom built cage...

Thanks Daniel - I will start getting some prices locally then I 
will know for sure.
Doug

... contact Chris Foley at CFR Welding (860) 647-1917.  I've been 
very happy with his work.  He and I worked together to put cages 
in two X1/9's, and he's done plenty of others, too. 

Doug Narby wrote:
: ...show them the PBS book. 
 
: Ok - guess I better buy that thing finally eh?  ;-)

It's about the best $10 you can spend for ideas.  Call Danny at 
(860) 871-1990 and order one.

: ...legs of the main hoop go all the way thru the rocker panels. 

: How do you do this without sacrificing structural integrity? Do 
: you mean to cut holes in the floor then weld plates underneath? 
: Or run the legs through and weld them on top and bottom where 
: they intersect the rocker panels?  This sounds like a good idea 
: if done correctly, a disaster if not...

It was a little tricky, but here's what we did:  We used 1.5" 
tubing, I believe, so we cut something like 1.75" holes in the 
top of the rocker panel and directly below from the bottom of the 
car.  It takes some thought to get them lined up, but it is okay 
if you are a little off.  You can do some grinding later.  You 
can either bend the hoop first and then drill the holes, or drill 
the holes first then bend the hoop so the legs will go through 
the holes.

The reason I say it is okay for you to be a little off is because 
you will fabricate substantial mounting plates on top of the 
rocker arm to solidly attach the tube to the car.  Anyone that 
looks at the mounting point will probably think that the tubes 
are resting on top of the mounting plates (it will not be obvious 
that the tubes continue downward. Make sense?).

Underneath the car you will want to do something similar 
(fabricate and weld plates to attache the tubes to the chassis). 
 You'll also want to weld "caps" onto the tube ends to keep junk 
out.  These make good jacking points.  Don't let them go any 
lower than the rocker panel seam, though, or you might hang up on 
trailer ramps...

I got the idea to go through the rocker panels in an article 
about building cages in Circle Track magazine.  It was a bit of a 
hassle, but I got some extra piece of mind afterwards, knowing 
that I had given the car a little extra stiffness.  The X1/9 is a 
very stiff car considering it is "open".  However, every little 
bit helps (up to a point, I guess).  You will have to decide if 
the extra $ and hassle is worth it. 

: Also what is your take on the cost-effectiveness of starting 
the 
: project with and autopower street bar?

I did this for my first ITC race car and it definitely saved 
money and effort.  The drawbacks were:  It was much heavier than 
the rules required (1.75" .120" wall?), it was high and made 
fitting the roof difficult.

Russ McBride
SCCA IT Racer
X1/9 enthusiast
Marietta, GA

RacerRuss wrote:
: ... contact Chris Foley at CFR Welding (860) 647-1917.



Nope - I am in Louisiana.  Thanks though.


: It was a little tricky, but here's what we did:  We used 1.5"


If I can find someone who will work *with* me instead of *for* me 
then I think that sounds cool.

: : Also what is your take on the cost-effectiveness of starting 
: :the  project with and autopower street bar?
: I did this for my first ITC race car and it definitely saved 
: money and effort.  The drawbacks were:  It was much heavier 
:than the rules required (1.75" .120" wall?), it was high and 
:made fitting the roof difficult.

Roof fitment isn't an issue as I intend to chop off the 
windshield.  OTOH I am 6'3" so the average roll bar may have to 
be made taller anyway, thus possibly defeating the savings...

As far as weight goes I am not too worried as I plan to start 
modifying the FI system soon and then I will have to add 165 
pounds to the car anyway...Prepared class Solo2 rules SUCK for FI 
cars.

In any case thanks for all the great info, and any more you see 
fit to pass on!

: Russ McBride
: SCCA IT Racer
: X1/9 enthusiast
: Marietta, GA

Doug Narby
'82 Bertone
#19 DP
Mamou, Lousiana